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The fashion industry is among the most polluting in the world. But the solutions to address this environmental crisis are not all the same—and they certainly don’t all work in the same way.
Between reducing consumption, reusing, repairing, upcycling, and recycling, the latter represents perhaps the most complex and fascinating technological challenge: transforming textile waste into new raw materials from which to create fashion.
But how sustainable is recycling really? What technological and economic obstacles does it face? And above all: does it work?
1. Fashion pollutes: recycling as one of the possible solutions
The numbers behind fashion’s environmental impact are staggering:
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92 million tons of textile waste produced each year worldwide
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Less than 1% of materials used to make clothing are recycled into new garments
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73% of clothes end up in landfills or are incinerated
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20,000 liters of water needed to produce 1 kg of virgin cotton
In response to this emergency, the industry has developed several strategies:
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Reduction: produce less, consume better, use eco-design
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Reuse: second-hand, vintage, resale
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Repair: extend the life of existing garments
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Upcycling: creatively transform waste into higher-value products
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Recycling: technologically process waste to obtain new raw materials
Recycling stands apart because it doesn’t just prolong the life of a garment or reuse it creatively: it aims to close the loop, bringing materials back to a “virgin” state from which new production can start.
It’s the promise of circular economy applied to textiles: no more waste—everything becomes a resource.
But the reality is far more complex than it appears.
2. From old to new: what recycling means in fashion
Textile recycling can transform old garments into new raw materials.
How does it actually work?
From old cotton garments, through mechanical or chemical processes, “regenerated” cotton fibers can be recovered and used to make new fabrics. The same applies to wool, polyester, and other fibers.
Some concrete examples:
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PET plastic bottles → Recycled polyester fibers → New technical or sports fabrics
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Old cotton T-shirts → Recycled cotton fibers → New yarns for jersey or denim
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Wool sweaters → Regenerated wool fibers → New winter fabrics
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Abandoned fishing nets → Regenerated nylon → Fabrics for swimwear or athleisure
The environmental advantage is potentially huge:
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Reduced consumption of virgin raw materials (less intensive farming, less oil extraction)
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Drastically lower water usage compared to manufacturing from scratch
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Lower energy impact in some cases
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Reduction of waste that would end up in landfills
On paper, recycling looks like the perfect solution. But in practice?
3. Mechanical vs. chemical recycling: technology, costs and perception
There are two main families of textile recycling processes: mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical recycling
The most traditional and intuitive process:
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Textile waste is mechanically shredded
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Fibers are separated and cleaned
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A “regenerated” fiber is obtained and spun into new fabrics
Advantages:
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Relatively low energy costs
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No use of harsh chemicals
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Established and scalable process
Limitations:
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Fibers shorten and weaken during mechanical recycling
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The resulting material is often lower quality than the original
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Requires clean, sorted, preferably mono-material waste
Chemical recycling
More sophisticated processes that chemically “dissolve” materials to restore them to their original molecular state:
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Fabrics are dissolved with specific solvents
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Polymers are separated and purified
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New fibers chemically identical to virgin ones are produced
Advantages:
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Regenerated fiber quality comparable to virgin
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Possibility of multiple recycling cycles
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Can process mixed fabrics by separating fibers
Limitations:
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Extremely high economic and energy costs
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Use of chemicals that require disposal
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Limited scalability: technologies still undergoing industrialization
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Environmental impact of the process itself must be carefully evaluated
The problem of consumer perception
There is an even more insidious obstacle: consumer perception.
Many end customers avoid garments made with recycled materials because they associate them with:
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Poor quality
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Unattractive aesthetics
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Shorter lifespan
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A “cheap” look
This perception is often technically unfounded, but it represents a real commercial barrier. Recycling must not only work technically—it must be communicated effectively and presented as desirable.
4. The complexity of textile waste: the problem of mixed fabrics
One of the biggest obstacles to effective textile recycling is the mixed nature of most waste.
Why is this a problem?
Contemporary fashion makes massive use of blended fabrics:
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Cotton + polyester (for strength and practicality)
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Wool + acrylic (to reduce costs)
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Viscose + elastane (for elasticity)
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Polyester + elastane (for sportswear)
These materials are extremely difficult to recycle mechanically because:
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Natural and synthetic fibers behave differently
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Mechanical separation is complex and expensive
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The result is often a hybrid, low-quality material
The need for mono-material waste
High-quality mechanical recycling requires mono-material waste: 100% cotton, 100% wool, 100% polyester.
But this implies:
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Costly and labor-intensive manual sorting
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Complex selective collection systems
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Traceability of garment composition
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Collaboration across the entire supply chain
In other words: high-quality textile recycling requires an organizational system far beyond just recycling technology.
Can chemical recycling help?
Chemical recycling promises to solve the problem of mixed fabrics by separating fibers chemically. But the issues remain:
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Prohibitive costs
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Limited industrial scalability
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Environmental impact of the solvents used
5. The Regenesi approach: regenerated materials and contemporary design
At Regenesi, we have chosen a different approach, starting from a realistic observation: textile recycling still has major technological and economic limitations.
For this reason, we work primarily with regenerated, non-textile materials that already have mature and consolidated recycling supply chains.
The Re-Flag case: from urban waste to metropolitan design
Our Re-Flag line perfectly embodies this approach:
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Over 90% of the fabric comes from recycled plastic bottles
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PET bottles are industrially processed into recycled polyester fibers
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These fibers are woven into a technical, durable, resistant material
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The design is ultra-contemporary and metropolitan: no “eco” look, no stylistic compromises
Why does this approach work?
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Mature technology: PET recycling is established, efficient, scalable
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Guaranteed quality: recycled PET fibers have performance equivalent to virgin polyester
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Positive environmental impact: every bottle recovered is one less bottle ending up in landfills or oceans
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Desirable aesthetics: the final product is beautiful, modern, and stigma-free
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Clear communication: customers immediately understand the material’s story
Beyond textiles: expanding possibilities
Regenesi also works with:
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Regenerated leather from industrial scraps
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Regenerated fabrics from consumer waste
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Recycled paper from urban recovery streams
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Aluminum from recovered cans
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Upcycled textiles
This multi-material approach allows us to:
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Always choose the most sustainable and effective solution for each product
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Avoid the technological and economic limits of pure textile recycling
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Create products with strong identity and compelling storytelling
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Maintain high aesthetic and quality standards
Conclusion: recycling yes, but with awareness
Recycling is not a magic wand. It is a promising technology, but still full of challenges.
At Regenesi, we believe that real sustainability does not come from miraculous solutions but from conscious, realistic, and verifiable choices. This is why we work with regenerated materials whose supply chain, impact, and quality we know thoroughly.
Because regenerated fashion should not look recycled: it must be beautiful, desirable, durable. And it must prove that sustainability and design are never in conflict.
Discover the Re-Flag collection
Contemporary design, regenerated materials from plastic bottles.
Over 90% recycled content, 100% urban style.
Explore Re-Flag
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about recycling in fashion
What’s the difference between recycling and upcycling?
Recycling transforms waste into new raw materials through technological processes. Upcycling creatively reuses existing materials, turning them into higher-value products without chemical or mechanical processing.
Is recycled polyester lower quality?
No. Polyester recycled from PET bottles can have technical performance identical or even superior to virgin polyester, and is already widely used in high-performance sportswear.
Why is textile recycling so expensive?
Costs stem from the need to collect, sort, clean, and process waste. Mixed fabrics require complex separation, and advanced chemical technologies have high energy and operational costs.
How can I recognize a product made with recycled materials?
Look for certifications such as GRS (Global Recycled Standard), RCS (Recycled Claim Standard), or transparent brand statements on material composition and origin.
How many times can a fabric be recycled?
It depends on the process. Mechanical recycling degrades fibers with each cycle (usually 2–3 cycles max). Chemical recycling can theoretically allow infinite cycles by returning fibers to their original molecular state.
Does Regenesi only use recycled materials?
We mainly use regenerated materials (such as PET from bottles) or upcycled materials (such as old denim). We always choose the most sustainable and highest-quality solution for each product.